Gunks Chapter

Trad Climbing Training Course

The AAC Gunks Chapter runs a Trad Climbing Training Course once a year. Read on for details on the course curriculum, attendee requirements, timing, location and how to apply.

***2024 applications are now closed. We will be opening applications for the 2025 Training Class at the end of this year.***

For more information about the Gunks and our Chapter’s purpose, visit our Chapter Homepage.

CLIMBING IS DANGEROUS! Prospective students for the Climbing Training Course should be aware of the inherent dangers in climbing. Climbing in the outdoors, whether Rock, Ice or Mountaineering carry the risk of personal injury or death. Exercising good judgment, best practices and skills may manage the risks, but they are never eliminated. Participating in Chapter activities is undertaken at your own risk.

Course goal: 

Teach climbers who are new to traditional (trad) climbing how to follow a leader on multi-pitch terrain.

You will learn:

• Basic knots and hitches (e.g. harness tie-in, figure eight-on-a-bight, girth hitch, clove hitch, friction hitches, proper methods for joining rappel ropes).

• Top rope anchor building (you will be climbing and rappelling on the anchors you build).

• Lead belay skills within a multi-pitch context. You will be tested in your ability to arrest a 200lb+ leader fall.

• Protocol for following a trad leader.

• Self anchoring (attaching yourself to ground belay anchors, intermediate belay anchors and anchors at the top of a climb).

• Cleaning: Skillful removal of trad gear, such as cams and nuts, from the rock.

• Rappelling including extension, backup and technique.

• Rope management: When, how, and why to properly flake a rope at the start of a climb and during each successive pitch; rope coiling techniques.

• Rope ascension using friction hitches.

• Escaping the belay: when, how, and why to safely escape a loaded belay.

On successful completion of the course, you’ll be introduced to a large network of experienced climbing partners and will be able to participate in our regularly scheduled trips and events for experienced trad climbers.

Applicant requirements:

• Must have a strong interest in multi-pitch trad rock climbing.

• Must be interested and able to climb once or twice a month during the rock climbing season (April-November).

• Should be expecting to participate in Gunks Chapter climbing for at least the next three seasons (i.e., expecting to stay in the region at least through end of 2027).

• Must have a conscientious approach to climbing. 

• Should be able to give back to the Chapter.

• Does not need to already have a high level of rock climbing experience - we welcome everyone of any skill and ability level to apply.

• The class is for adults 18+.

• Gunks climbing is notorious for its exposure, which can be daunting even for those not afraid of heights. There will be times you will be hanging 250 feet off the ground. Building ‘head game’ is all part of learning to multi-pitch climb at the Gunks and many people who start with a mild fear of heights do great, but do consider this before you apply.

• Must comply with the AAC Program Participant Agreement in relation to COVID-19 guidelines and sign a waiver to participate.
  

The class is NOT suitable for:

• People with a casual interest in rock climbing (there are great local guide services at the Gunks if you’d like to try trad climbing to see if it’s for you).

• People who cannot commit to being a regular participant in Chapter activities.

• Trad climbers who are already experienced seconds/followers.

• Experienced trad lead climbers. (We are always looking to build our membership with conscientious, experienced lead climbers. If this is you, contact us at gunkswalkons@americanalpineclub.org for more information.)

 
The course is led by AAC Members who have extensive rock climbing and instructional experience - some have been instructing for decades. Since it provides an in-depth introduction to trad climbing at not-for-profit rates, demand outstrips the number of places we can offer. The course is also 100% volunteer led and due to family and work commitments of our instructors, we cannot offer it more than once a year. We hate to turn people away and for that reason are particularly interested in applicants who can commit to ongoing skills progression and can demonstrate how they would be able to give back to the Chapter so that we can grow what we do in future.

Logistics

When & Where:
Skills training will run across two weekends in Southington, CT on April 6-7 and April 13-14, 2024.

In order to complete the course you also need to attend our ‘graduation’ event at the Gunks on May 4-5, where you’ll put your new skills into practice through a weekend of multi-pitch climbing . Please do not apply if you cannot commit to each training weekend.

Cost:
AAC members $250 / Non-AAC members $325.

The course is not-for-profit and all proceeds go towards funding the AAC’s vision of a united community of competent climbers and healthy climbing landscapes. You can join the AAC here.

In addition to the course fee, participants must supply their own personal safety/climbing equipment (shoes, harness, belay device, helmet, slings etc.); expect to spend about $250 for this equipment. We will provide a complete list of what you need upon acceptance to the course. Do not send in the course fee or purchase any equipment until you are confirmed as a student in the class.

Class Size:
16 students.

Student to Instructor Ratio:
Approximately 3:1.

Transportation:
Your responsibility. We will send out a class roster so that you can carpool.

Lodging:
Your responsibility (motels and camping are available - we will send details of preferred accommodation to successful applicants).